What I’m trying to do is leave the dark brown wash in the eye sockets, in the creases running down to the corners of the mouths, etc. I’m using a Windsor Newton 00 or 000 brush (double zero or triple zero) and I’m using a little water with the paint to get a nice smooth finish as I brush it over the cheeks, forehead etc. I used the paler tone for all these figures. Depending on the project I’ll use one that’s a little more pinkish or one that’s a little more pale. Presumably, it’s the result of different production runs, but such a variation isn’t common. I actually have two old bottles of this with the same number and they’re decidedly different colours, which is unusual. Next up I use Vallejo 70.815 Basic Skintone. We’ll talk about using oils later in the series.
You’re looking for a mix somewhere in the middle, so it holds in the cracks and crevices while it dries, but runs off all the high spots (like noses, cheekbones etc.). For an acrylic wash, you don’t want it too much water or it all just runs off the figure, and you don’t want too much paint or it’s just going on too thick, because it’s still basically paint. Generally, I’ll just mix up what I want for any situation. Quick tip: a wash is a watered-down paint basically, and they can be acrylic or oil (oils would be thinned with mineral spirits or appropriate paint thinner). There seem to be some nice GW washes out there but I haven’t used them yet, so if you’ve got a nice dark brown, that’s really all I’m looking for. Then I mix up a wash of Vallejo German Camo Black Brown and I apply the wash all over the faces and hands, making sure it’s getting into the eye sockets, mouths, facial creases and between the fingers.
Bolt action strong tone quickshade skin#
Base coat for skin was first done in Vallejo Dark Flesh 70.927. Once base coated, my next step is to start with the faces and hands. Bottom right is the first test figure, painted all the way to completion. Uniform colour is sprayed on, skin is painted, helmets are painted. This way I can come back later and finish them off, or if I want to expand a force, I have the recipe written down. So I started a journal where I record each gaming system and then the colour choices for each army. When I’m ready to come back to finish the original project (and I’m talking years later sometimes here!) I struggle to match colours. As a slow and easily distracted painter, I frequently start projects, see something newer and shiny and move to that for a while. I don’t worry about keeping the face or hands clear of paint the whole model is sprayed.Īnd here’s where I share my lesson learned long ago. So at this stage, I’m literally painting the entire model the base uniform colour I’m going to use. But for these colours, I’ve got some Vallejo Model Air colours I can use. I should mention I’m also a fan of a rattle can for a base coat, and will use that for the half-track. I did this with an airbrush for this project and whenever I can I am making colour choices based on what I can find in Vallejo Model Air colours, so I’m hopefully not trying to custom mix colours. Once they’re dry it’s time to move on to base coating. You can speed up the drying by using a hairdryer, and then leaving the fan running for a while seems to do away with the worst of the stink in the house. Painting is tough to get done sometimes in the winter months, so I try to wait for warmer days to spray outside then rush them inside to the bathroom with a heated tile floor. To begin I primed everything with GW black primer. Everything is assembled, it’s about time we got some paint on them!
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